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In January of this year, Jon Griffith and Ueli Steck made the first free ascent and first single day winter ascent of the Lesueur Route on north face of Les Drus. Griffith notes that the pair climbed a variation, and not the exact summer route. He explains, "the reasons [for the variation] were two fold really - firstly the bivy site looked horrific (not enough snow) so we wanted to push on, and secondl ...
Talented Norwegian ice climbers Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and Ole Lied have climbed a major new route on Patagonia's Torre Egger (2,850m), forcing an outrageous series of ice pitches up the left side of the South Face overlooking the Col of Conquest. The pair spent the first day climbing ca 600m to the Col, the pronounced notch between Egger and Cerro Torre, via Alessandro Beltrami, Rolando Garibotti and Erma ...
Italian Hans Kammerlander and American Jordan Romero have both achieved personal dreams, Kammerlander becoming the first to climb all the second highest summits on each of the continents, while Romero became the youngest "Seven Summiteer". In early January Kammerlander made only the fifth ascent of Tyree (4,852m) in the Sentinel Range of Antarctica, climbing in the company of Austrians Robert Miller and ...
Colin Haley had a productive start to his annual Patagonia season, completing a first ascent on Cerro Standhardt and a solo ascent of Aguja Innominata. Arriving in Chalten, Argentina, at the tail end of a good weather window, Haley warmed up by nearly soloing the south face of Cerro Pollone, a route that apparently had been unrepeated since its first ascent in 1949, despite only brief difficulties. On N ...
Adam Ondra has made the second ascent of Gioia in Varazze, Italy, and confirmed its V16 grade. Christian Core established the boulder problem in 2008 after spending four months working out the moves. Gioia ("Joy" in English) is 14 moves long with terrible feet, with a stand start that goes at around V12/13. Ondra had sent the stand start in January 2011 very quickly—"About 30 minutes," he says. "It is v ...
Spanish climbers Jordi Corominas and Elena Parga have completed the probable first ascent of the southwest face of Cho Polu, a 6,695-meter (21,965') peak in the Khumbu region of Nepal. The two climbed alpine-style and spent four days round-trip on the route, which ascends a steep snow and ice face for about 3,300 feet to a col. From here, Corominas soloed the final 1,000 feet to the summit. He believes ...
On November 11, David Gottlieb and Chad Kellogg made the first ascent of Nepal's Pangbuk Ri (6716m) in fifty hours, camp to camp. They reached the summit via the South Face (VI, AI5, M5,1400m) in just over twenty-six hours of climbing. Then the pair descended the face opposite the one they climbed, before hallucinating their way through a ten mile hike back to their base camp.
On November 16, Canadians Sonnie Trotter and Will Stanhope repeated Leo Houlding's famed route The Prophet (5.13dR, 600m) on El Cap. Trotter and Stanhope spent five weeks in Yosemite Valley working the route, before completing a ground-up free ascent in a three-day push that fell on both of their birthdays.
Britons Mick Fowler and Dave Turnbull have completed the first ascent of Gojung (aka Mugu Chuli, 6,310m/20,702') in western Nepal. The two climbers took four days to climb the peak via a striking ice couloir that slashes across the steep west face from right to left. Hit by a storm on top, they needed another three days to traverse northward over a 6,264-meter sub-summit, and then descend to the west to ...
Petzl's annual RocTrip ended with a bang this past weekend in the Getu Valley, China: Spanish climber Dani Andrada succeeded on an eight-pitch, 5.14b first ascent he called Corazon de Ensueño. In an interview with Petzl, Andrada said he spent 11 days of cleaning and bolting, but he only needed three days to free-climb all pitches separately. On Saturday, belayed by Chris Sharma, Andrada finished the rou ...
Alex Honnold is doing what he can to blurr the border between highballing and soloing. Recently, in the Buttermilks at Bishop, California, he made the first ascent of Too Big to Flail, a ~14m "problem" on the Luminance Block. According to Bishop Bouldering "This line [...] in ...
The elegant pyramid of 6,376m Grosvenor in the Minya Konka Range of China's Daxue Shan received its third and fourth ascents by new routes on opposite sides of the mountain. Following widespread publication of photos by Japanese explorer Tamotsu Nakamura, Grosvenor received a ...
Denis Burdet and Stephan Siegrist (Switzerland), David Lama (Austria) and the American climber/photographer Robert Frost have made the second ascent of India's Cerro Kishtwar. This spectacular rock and ice peak of the Eastern Kishtwar Himalaya, in the troubled region of Kashm ...
Dan Varian has made the long-awaited second ascent of Andy Earl's The Dark Side at Back Bowden Doors, Northumberland. The steep sandstone route was first climbed by Andy Earl back in October of 2003 and is graded E9 7b.
Austrian mountaineer Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner has summited K2 today by the rarely climbed north ridge, a classy finish to her quest to be the first woman to climb all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks without supplemental oxygen. Kaltenbrunner summited in early evening, Pakis ...
Kazakh climbers Gennady Durov and Denis Urubko have climbed a difficult new route on the huge north face of 7,439-meter Pobeda Peak in Kyrgyzstan. The new line tackles steep ground to the right of the historic Dollar Route, climbed in 1982. Durov and Urubko took six days to c ...
Shawn Raboutou has climbed Welcome to Tijuana (5.14b) in Rodellar, Spain, marking the 13-year-old's first climb of the grade. Raised by hardcore climbers and former world champions Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou and Didier Raboutou, Shawn has been climbing in Europe with his family this summer. Earlier this summer, Shawn climbed Persifleur (5.13+) a ...
June 25, a team led by Alexander Odintsov climbed a new route on the west face of Latok III (6949m). Odintsov and team members Alexey Lonchinskiy, Ivan Dozhdev and Eugeniy Dmitrenko began this expedition on June 10, establishing nine camps in their fifteen-day climb. Two days ...
Mikhail Mikhaylov and Alexander Ruchkin have made the first ascent of the main summit of the Shark's Teeth, spectacular granite spires on Greenland's East Coast. The Shark's Teeth are located in the south east corner of Renland, part of the Greenland mainland immediately nort ...
27 year old Swiss climber Dani Arnold has speed soloed the North Face of the Eiger in 2 hours and 28 minutes. Arnold, who lives in the Swiss town of Burglen, has been climbing since he was 14 years old. The young mountain guide has previously made a speed solo of the 36 pitch ...
