Nowadays, 5.14a ascents don't typically make the news—unless, of course, they're made by 10-year-olds. Brooke Raboutou, daughter of Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, recently climbed her first 5.14a with God's Own Stone in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky. This makes her the youngest female, and likely the youngest American, to send this grade. Team ABC, a youth climbing team based in Boulder and coached by Robyn ...
Six climbs by 15 alpinists—six of them American—have been nominated for the 20th edition of the Piolets d’Or, the annual prize for innovative mountaineering ascents across the world. The winners will be announced in Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, France, and Courmayeur, Italy, during the four-day festival starting March 21. The jury chooses the ascents based on a list of criteria, including style of ascent, spiri ...
German climber Robert Jasper has made the first ascent of one of the hardest dry tooling routes in the world. Iron Man sits at his local climbing area Eptingen in Switzerland. The route is 40 meters long, and a link-up of existing routes on this steep wall. Jasper had originally conceived the notion of creating a huge mixed link-up on the wall, but there was no ice due to warm weather. He suggests a gra ...
In January of this year, Jon Griffith and Ueli Steck made the first free ascent and first single day winter ascent of the Lesueur Route on north face of Les Drus. Griffith notes that the pair climbed a variation, and not the exact summer route. He explains, "the reasons [for the variation] were two fold really - firstly the bivy site looked horrific (not enough snow) so we wanted to push on, and secondl ...
Talented Norwegian ice climbers Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and Ole Lied have climbed a major new route on Patagonia's Torre Egger (2,850m), forcing an outrageous series of ice pitches up the left side of the South Face overlooking the Col of Conquest. The pair spent the first day climbing ca 600m to the Col, the pronounced notch between Egger and Cerro Torre, via Alessandro Beltrami, Rolando Garibotti and Erma ...
Italian Hans Kammerlander and American Jordan Romero have both achieved personal dreams, Kammerlander becoming the first to climb all the second highest summits on each of the continents, while Romero became the youngest "Seven Summiteer". In early January Kammerlander made only the fifth ascent of Tyree (4,852m) in the Sentinel Range of Antarctica, climbing in the company of Austrians Robert Miller and ...
Colin Haley had a productive start to his annual Patagonia season, completing a first ascent on Cerro Standhardt and a solo ascent of Aguja Innominata. Arriving in Chalten, Argentina, at the tail end of a good weather window, Haley warmed up by nearly soloing the south face of Cerro Pollone, a route that apparently had been unrepeated since its first ascent in 1949, despite only brief difficulties. On N ...
Adam Ondra has made the second ascent of Gioia in Varazze, Italy, and confirmed its V16 grade. Christian Core established the boulder problem in 2008 after spending four months working out the moves. Gioia ("Joy" in English) is 14 moves long with terrible feet, with a stand start that goes at around V12/13. Ondra had sent the stand start in January 2011 very quickly—"About 30 minutes," he says. "It is v ...
Spanish climbers Jordi Corominas and Elena Parga have completed the probable first ascent of the southwest face of Cho Polu, a 6,695-meter (21,965') peak in the Khumbu region of Nepal. The two climbed alpine-style and spent four days round-trip on the route, which ascends a steep snow and ice face for about 3,300 feet to a col. From here, Corominas soloed the final 1,000 feet to the summit. He believes ...
On November 11, David Gottlieb and Chad Kellogg made the first ascent of Nepal's Pangbuk Ri (6716m) in fifty hours, camp to camp. They reached the summit via the South Face (VI, AI5, M5,1400m) in just over twenty-six hours of climbing. Then the pair descended the face opposite the one they climbed, before hallucinating their way through a ten mile hike back to their base camp.
Climbing Festival in Frankenjura! Four days of rock! To this day, the legendary climbing festival of 1981 in Konstein influences the sport of rock climbing. A follow-up to this classic event, the Marmot Frankenjura Climbing Festival, is now planned for Pentecost weekend, May ...
On March 31 David Lama onsight soloed a new route, Badlands (6a A1 WI4 M5, 700m), in the Valser Valley of the Tyrol region in western Austria. Fresh off the Patagonian season, Lama returned to Europe where he followed up a new route on the north face of Slovenia\'s Loska Sten ...
George Ullrich (UK), Siebe Vanhee (Belgium), Sam Farnsworth (UK), and Mason Earle (USA) have climbed a new big wall route in Venezuela, behind the huge waterfall of Salto Tuyuren on the Amuri Tepui, a wall that John Arran described as "having the possibility for the most over ...
Swiss climber Dani Arnold has repeated The Hurting (XI,11) in Coire an t-Sneachda, Cairngorms. The young Swiss mountain guide shot to fame last year with his impressive speed-solo of the North Face of the Eiger in just 2 hours and 28 minutes. He commented on his ascent of The ...
Krali Marko boulder meeting is a climbing happening to who are gathering large number of peoples who love bouldering on the amazing “Marko Kuli” above city of Prilep and around him near Kamena Baba. The name of meeting is typical for this region for the reason that Krali Mark ...
Alizee Dufraisse, who climbed her first 8c+, Pati noso, not long ago, has now pushed it half a notch further by doing La Reina Mora, 8c+/9a, at Siurana. The route is in the same sector, El Pati, as Pati noso, so it would seem this wall suits her quite well! This was of course ...
Alex Honnold is doing what he can to blurr the border between highballing and soloing. Recently, in the Buttermilks at Bishop, California, he made the first ascent of Too Big to Flail, a ~14m "problem" on the Luminance Block. According to Bishop Bouldering "This line [...] in ...
The elegant pyramid of 6,376m Grosvenor in the Minya Konka Range of China's Daxue Shan received its third and fourth ascents by new routes on opposite sides of the mountain. Following widespread publication of photos by Japanese explorer Tamotsu Nakamura, Grosvenor received a ...
Denis Burdet and Stephan Siegrist (Switzerland), David Lama (Austria) and the American climber/photographer Robert Frost have made the second ascent of India's Cerro Kishtwar. This spectacular rock and ice peak of the Eastern Kishtwar Himalaya, in the troubled region of Kashm ...
Dan Varian has made the long-awaited second ascent of Andy Earl's The Dark Side at Back Bowden Doors, Northumberland. The steep sandstone route was first climbed by Andy Earl back in October of 2003 and is graded E9 7b.
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