Vertical World School Programs
http://school.verticalworld.net
2-day Winter Mountaineering Course on Peak Vihren
http://school.verticalworld.net/program.php?id=132
Vihren's North Face as seen from Djamdjiev Ridge
REQUIREMENTS:
- More than 6 hours summer treks with some technical difficulty;
- Very good physical condition;
THE COURSE IS APPROPRIATE FOR:
- Mountaineers (hikers) who have solid summer experience and would like to walk safely in winter conditions and make easy technical climbs on ridges / traverses with longer duration and on mixed snowy-rocky to icy terrain.
- People who plan to climb easy technical peaks with higher altitude abroad:
- 1 or 2 instructors;
- General alpine equipment necessary for the course.
PRICE NOT INCLUDE:
- Food;
- Transport to Шилигарника;
- Mountain health insurance;
- Personal alpine equipment – harness, ice axe, helmet, crampons and carabiners.
- 2 nights at Vihren Hut.
Snow shelter
ITINERARY:
Day 1:
Събиране на групата до 21.00 часа в хижа Вихрен. Проверка на инвентара и екипировката.
Day 2:
Учебен материал: Практика - основни възли и обвързвания подходящи за траверси и лесни зимни изкачвания, запознаване с катерачния инвентар, движение по снежни и фирнови склонове с котки и пикел, елементарно катерене по скала с котки и сечива и организиране на принудителен бивак в снежна пещера. Теория - опасности в зимната планина (видове лавини, лавиноопасни склонове и безопасното им преминаване), екипировка и избор на екипировка за зимната планина (обувки, ръкавици, дрехи, снегоходки, котки и пикел).
Място на провеждане: х. Вихрен и околностите й.
Описание на района: Катерене до 3 категория по скали с височина до 10 метра.
Продължителност на практическите занимания: Около 8-10 часа. Тръгване в 7.00 сутринта.
Day 3:
Учебен материал: Практика - движение по снежни и фирнови склонове с котки и пикел, осигуряване и осигуровки при зимни условия, движение във френска свръзка и самозадържане. Теория - оценка на потенциалните опасности и избор на подходящ маршрут при подсичания на склонове и движение по скални гребени.
Място на провеждане: х. Вихрен - Джамджиев ръб - вр. Вихрен - Кабата - х. Вихрен.
Описание на района: Катерене до 3- категория по прагове с височина до 5 метра. Преминаването през доста лавиноопасни зони при слизането от върха ще изисква от групата пределно внимание.
Продължителност на практическите занимания: Около 8-10 часа. Тръгване в 4.00 сутринта.
Късно следобяд или вечерта отпътуване на групата.
ЗАДЪЛЖИТЕЛЕН ЛИЧЕН ИНВЕНТАР И ЕКИПИРОВКА:
- Алпийски обувки (в краен случай може и добри трекинг обувки);
- Пухено яке;
- Шапка – 1-2 бр.;
- Вълнени (поларени) ръкавици с пръсти – минимум 2 бр.;
- Дебели вълнени ръкавици с един пръст;
- Шушлекови ръкавици или лапи;
- Яке шушлеково (горатексови), връхно с качулка;
- Дебел полар или уиндстопър;
- Термобелuо - долнище и горнище;
- Долнище шушлеково (горатекс), за предпочитане да е гащеризон с ципове отстрани;
- Гети;
- Бивачно фолио;
- Раница 45 л.;
- Снегоходки;
- Спален чувал;
- Очила (скиорски);
- Челник;
- Котки;
- Пикел;
- Каска;
- Катерачна седалка.
Част от алпийския инвентар като пикел, каска и катерачна седалка могат да бъдат осигурени от Вертикален свят.
ЦЕЛИ НА ОБУЧЕНИЕТО:
- Техника на придвижване по снежни и фирнови склонове с котки и сечива;
- Осигуряване през естествени осигуровки, с ледени клинове и осигуряване през пикел;
- Падане и самозадържане;
- Техника на движение по снежни гребени, смесен терен, включващ сняг, лед и скала, подсичане на склонове;
- Лавиноопасни зони, оценка на опасностите и условията, правила за преминаване на лавиноопасни участъци;
- Прокарване на пъртина (движение в група);
- Снежна пещера;
- Френска свръзка;
- Избор на екипировка за зимната планина (новости и препоръки за модели).
Mont Blanc is the highest peak in the Alps and in Western Europe. It is situated between the valley of Aosta in Italy and Haute-Savoie in France. The French-Italian border crosses its highest point.
The first ascent was made on August 8th in year 1786 by Jacques Balmat and doctor Michel Paccard. Today this ascent is considered to mark the beginning of modern mountaineering. The first woman to reach the top is Marie Paradis in year 1808.
Recently average 20 000 alpinists and tourists climb the top each year; however this doesn't mean that the top is easy to reach. In August, when it is high season, the local mountain rescue service makes at about 12 flights per weekend. The combination of high altitude, relatively unstable weather, steep and exposed terrain, glacial features, orienting difficulty can be quite serious.
Experience:
To accomplish the climb you need to be in excellent physical condition and to have previous mountaineering experience including few long outings, self-arrest technique and use of an ice-axе and crampons.
Click on the image to view it in full size
Prices:
Per person for minimum 2 clients - 586 €
For individual client - 996 €
The group is maximum 2 people.
Price Includes:
- All guiding fees;
- Group climbing equipment (ropes & karabiners);
- 1 night accommodation in Gouter hut;
- Lift tickets (cable-car & train).
Price Not Includes:
- Travel to and from Chamonix;
- Lodging in Chamonix;
- Mountain rescue insurance;
- Meals.
Click on the image to view it in full size
Itinerary:
Day 1: Chamonix
Arrival and accommodation in Chamonix. Meeting with your guide in the evening, equipment check and briefing.
Day 2: Gouter hut (3817m) - 5/6 hours
By taking one of the first lifts and trams of the day from Les Houches to the Nid d`Aigle we will be able to climb up to the Tete Rousse hut in the cool of the morning and stop off for lunch. We will arrive at the Gouter hut in the early afternoon.
- Nid d`Aigle (2372m) -> Baraque des Rognes (2768m) = 1hr
- Baraque des Rognes (2768m) -> Tete Rousse hut (3167m) = 1hr 30mins
- Tete Rousse hut (3167m) -> Gouter hut (3817m) = 2hr 30mins
Day 3: Mont Blanc (4808m) - 10/11 hours
Leaving the Gouter hut at around 2 a.m. we will have the whole day ahead of us to climb to the summit and be back down early enough to catch a tram and lift down to the valley.
- Gouter hut (3817m) -> Shoulder below Dome du Gouter (4260m) = 2hrs
- Shoulder below Dome du Gouter (4260m) -> Col du Dome (4255m) = 15mins
- Col du Dome (4255m) -> Vallot shelter (4362m) = 30mins
- Vallot shelter (4362m) -> Mont Blanc (4808m) = 2hrs
- Mont Blanc (4808m) -> Nid d`Aigle (2372m) = 5hrs
Day 4: Extra Day for Bad Weather
The additional day to this program is planned in case of a bad weather or if we need to stay one more night in hut on our way down from the top.
Equipment:
- 40-litre rucksack;
- Mountaineering boots - warm and suitable for crampons;
- Gaiters (with a strap under the boot);
- Crampons with anti-balling system;
- Classic ice axe;
- 1 or 2 telescopic ski poles;
- Lightweight and comfortable climbing harness + cow`s-tail with screw-gate karabiner;
- Head torch with new batteries;
- Lightweight helmet (especially for the Aiguille du Gouter);
- Warm socks (+ spare pair);
- Carline-type thermal T-shirt, avoid using cotton as it absorbs moisture and dries slowly;
- Polar fleece sweater;
- Down or Thermolite jacket;
- Carline-type or stretch polar fleece leggings;
- Waterproof jacket (with hood) and over-trousers (Gore Tex);
- Hat or headband;
- Balaclava;
- Sunglasses;
- Ski goggles;
- Pair of lightweight gloves;
- Pair of warm gloves or mittens;
- High SPF sun cream;
- 1-litre insulated water bottle;
- Snack food;
- Optional: a lightweight sheet sleeping bag for the night in the hut.
The group is maximum 2 people.]]>2012-05-07Arête des Cosmiques and Dent du Géant
http://school.verticalworld.net/program.php?id=38
Click on the image to view it in full size
The Cosmiques Ridge is a very popular route as it is an excellent intro to mixed alpine climbing. It offers all a mountaineer could want – interesting approach, which includes descent by a sharp snowy ridge, short walk on a glacier, climbing on good quality rock, some mixed climbing too and also few rappels. Due to the fast approach the route can be done for 3-4 hours considered from Aiguille du Midi lift station and back to it. The maximum technical difficulty is a short crux 4b/c, 200 meters altitude gain.
Climbing Dent du Géant to a certain extend resembles climbing Matterhorn. The approach to the needle is not easy and can be dangerous in the beginning of the season, because the melting snow and other climbers can cause stonefalls. The normal route offers climbing on solid rock and fixed ropes at the difficult parts. Dent du Géant actually has 2 different summits divided by a short and very sharp ridge - Pointe Graham (4013m) and Pointe Sella (4009m). The difficulty of the route with using the fixed ropes is AD (3+ A0), and the length of the needle itself is 250m.
Click on the image to view it in full size
Prices
Per person for minimum 2 clients - 790 €
For individual client - 1258 €
The group is maximum 2 people.
Price Includes
- All guiding fees;
- Group climbing equipment (ropes & karabiners);
- 1 night accommodation in Rifugio Torino;
- Lift tickets (cable-cars).
Price Not Includes
- Travel to and from Chamonix;
- Lodging in Chamonix;
- Mountain rescue insurance;
- Meals.
Click on the image to view it in full size
Itinerary
Day 1: Cosmiques Ridge
We will leave Chamonix at 9 a.m. and take the lift to Aiguille du Midi. Here we will leave the extra luggage and go down to the glacier at the foot of the Cosmiques Ridge. Depending on the business of the route and the snow conditions the climb can take 3-4 hours. After we reach the lift station we will also climb the peak of the Southeast wall which is short and very beautiful. When we finish the climb we will take the cable car to Torino hut where we will stay for the night.
Day 2: Dent du Géant
We will leave Torino hut at 6.30 a.m. The foot of the rock massif is being reached by an easy walk on the glacier. Then there is an easy to climb terrain which will lead us to the foot of the pillar. When we pass that part of the route we will reach a panoramic snowy-icy ridge, leading to the beginning of the normal route itself. Climbing the pillar takes 2-4 hours, and getting down takes roughly an hour.
Experience
To take part in this climb you need to be in good physical condition, have previous climbing experience, good mastery of belaying, rapelling, working with climbing equipment and rock climbing min. grade 5.
Click on the image to view it in full size
Personal Equipment
- 40-litre rucksack;
- Mountaineering boots - warm and suitable for crampons;
- Gaiters (with a strap under the boot);
- Crampons with anti-balling system;
- Classic ice axe;
- 1 or 2 telescopic ski poles;
- Lightweight and comfortable climbing harness + cow`s-tail with screw-gate karabiner;
- Lightweight helmet;
- Warm socks (+ spare pair);
- Carline-type thermal T-shirt, avoid using cotton as it absorbs moisture and dries slowly;
- Polar fleece sweater;
- Down or Thermolite jacket;
- Carline-type or stretch polar fleece leggings;
- Waterproof jacket (with hood) and over-trousers (Gore Tex);
- Hat or headband;
- Balaclava;
- Sunglasses;
- Pair of lightweight gloves;
- Pair of warm gloves or mittens;
- High SPF sun cream;
- 1-litre insulated water bottle;
- Snack food.
Click on the image to view it in full size]]>2012-05-07Mont Blanc - The Royal Traverse (Miage-Bionnassay)
http://school.verticalworld.net/program.php?id=11
Click on the image to view it in full size
This route can hardly be compared to the other "normal" route leading to Mont Blanc – it requires considerable physical endurance and good technical skills. Miage-Bionnassey combines all an alpinist can dream of, making it a real royal traverse. There is not a single aspect of the route to make it unpleasant and unwanted.
Miage-Bionnassay starts from the Les Contamines Montjoie, gradually gaining height. The technical difficulties are motivating, without being overwhelming and the route follows a variety of breathtaking ridges, situated on the serene and virgin South-West side of Mont Blanc. The views are magnificent. This is a route which will be remembered more as a true alpinism than an ordinary ascent of Mont Blanc. As Frank Damilano, one of the famous local guides, says this is a route which will reveal to you new horizons!
Advantages
- Three days to get to the summit of Mont Blanc;
- Varied route: walking on glaciers, climbing ridges, snow, ice and rock;
- Technical route: narrow ridges, sections of rock climbing;
- Unspoilt route;
- No lifts;
- Committing route;
- A lot of height gain.
Click on the image to view it in full size
Prices
Per person for minimum 2 clients - 856 €
For individual client - 1540 €
The group is maximum 2 people.
Price Includes
- All guiding fees;
- Group climbing equipment (ropes & karabiners);
- 3 night accommodation in Conscrits hut, Durier hut and Tete Rousse hut or Nid d`Aigle;
- Lift tickets (cable-car & train).
Price Not Includes
- Travel to and from Chamonix;
- Travel to Les Contamines Montjoie (train & bus) from Chamonix;
- Lodging in Chamonix;
- Mountain rescue insurance;
- Meals.
Click on the image to view it in full size
Itinerary
Day 1: Chamonix
Arrival and accommodation in Chamonix. Meeting with your guide in the evening, equipment check and briefing.
Day 2: Conscrits hut (2602m) - 5/6 hours
We will get from Chamonix to Les Contamines Montjoie using the local transport and from there starts a good path, which gradually gains height and wonders through a pleasant mixed forest. On reaching the Tre-la-Tete hut we will take a rest and continue to the Tre-la-Tete Glacier. Here the path becomes narrow and dangerous. When we reach the glacier we will continue walking through it until we get to the icy wall of the Tre-la-Grande. A steep climb of a 100 meter via ferrata will lead us to the top of the plateau where the Conscrits hut is situated.
- Le Cugnon car park (1175m) -> Tre-la-Tete hut (1970m) = 2hrs
- Tre-la-Tete hut (1970m) -> Conscrits hut (2602m) = 3hrs
Day 3: Durier hut (3369m) - 7/8 hours
From Conscrits hut we have to climb the nearby Aiguille de la Berangere and then traverse 5 peaks from the group of Dimes de Miage. The line of peaks forms a 3 kilometer ridge, which is known as "Mont Blanc de Saint Gervais". As a whole the ridge is not technically difficult. The descent to Durier hut however is much more serious as we have to downclimb on a snowy-icy terrain. If the weather is unstable we can avoid a great part of the ridge in order to save time and go by the Tre-la-Tete Glacier to Col des Domes from where we will continue to Durier hut.
- Conscrits hut (2602m) -> Aiguille de la Berangere (3425m) = 3hrs
- Aiguille de la Berangere (3425m) -> Col de la Berangere (3348m) = 30mins
- Col de la Berangere (3348m) -> Summit 3670 = 1hr
- Summit 3670 -> Col des Domes (3564m) = 30mins
- Col des Domes (3564m) -> Durier hut (3369m) = 2hrs 30mins
Click on the image to view it in full size
Day 4: Mont Blanc (4808m) - 14/16 hours
Climbing Aiguille de Bionnassay is technical and in good conditions it can offer a really pleasant rock climbing of 3d-4th category. The ridge between Aiguille de Bionnassay and Dome du Gouter is one of the sharpest and most extreme in the Mont Blanc massif. This is perhaps the most beautiful part of the route and also the most dangerous. After we reach Dome du Gouter we can leave the extra luggage and climb Mont Blanc by its ridge Bosses Ridge. The descent from Mont Blanc we be made via the Normal Route. We may have additional stay for one night in Tete Rousse hut or Nid d`Aigle hut.
- Durier hut (3369m) -> Aiguille de Bionnassay (4040m) = 3hrs 30 mins
- Aiguille de Bionnassay (4040m) -> Piton des Italiens (4002m) = 1 hr 30mins
- Piton des Italiens (4002m) -> Col du Dome (4255m) = 2hrs
- Col du Dome (4255m) -> Vallot shelter (4362m) = 30mins
- Vallot shelter (4362m) -> Mont Blanc (4808m) = 2hrs
- Mont Blanc (4808m) -> Nid d`Aigle (2372m) = 5hrs
Day 5: Extra Day for Bad Weather
The additional day to this program is planned in case of a bad weather or if we need to stay one more night in hut on our way down from the top.
Experience
To accomplish the climb you need to be in excellent physical condition and to have also serious previous mountaineering experience including climbing on rocks, ice and mixed terrain, rappelling, traversing ridges, self-arrest technique and deftly using ice-axes and crampons.
Click on the image to view it in full size
Personal Equipment
- 40-litre rucksack;
- Mountaineering boots - warm and suitable for crampons;
- Gaiters (with a strap under the boot);
- Crampons with anti-balling system;
- Technical ice axe;
- 1 or 2 telescopic ski poles;
- Lightweight and comfortable climbing harness + cow`s-tail with screw-gate karabiner;
- Head torch with new batteries (+ spare);
- Lightweight helmet (especially for the Aiguille du Gouter);
- Warm socks (+ spare pair);
- Carline-type thermal T-shirt, avoid using cotton as it absorbs moisture and dries slowly;
- Polar fleece sweater;
- Down or Thermolite jacket;
- Carline-type or stretch polar fleece leggings;
- Waterproof jacket (with hood) and over-trousers (Gore Tex);
- Hat or headband;
- Balaclava;
- Sunglasses;
- Ski goggles;
- Pair of lightweight gloves;
- Pair of warm gloves or mittens;
- High SPF sun cream;
- 1-litre insulated water bottle;
- Snack food;
- Optional: a lightweight sheet sleeping bag for the night in the hut.]]>2012-05-07K-2 Gondogoro La Trek 2009
http://school.verticalworld.net/program.php?id=25
World greatest concentration of lofty peaks and longest glaciers is nestled in this region. A 100 km thick wall of majestic mountains separate Baltistan from China in the north while Deosai Plateau lies between Karakorum and Himalayas also in the southeast is Ladakh and in the west Gilgit and Hunza. In this massively mountainous area, lie 60 peaks of above 7000 meters. Four of which are above 8000 meters, K2 (8611 m), Gasherbrum I (8068 m), Broad Peak (8047m) and Gasherbrum II (8035 m). These peaks stand admist the greatest concentration of glaciers outside Polar Regions, Siachen (76 Kms), Biafo (65 Kms) and Baltoro (62 Kms) glaciers. It is because of these features that Baltistan is called ‘Trekker's Paradise'. For the resemblance of its sand dunes and deserted hills in the Indus Valley. Baltistan is also known as Little Tibet. Skardu, 2340 meters above sea level, is the capital of Baltistan and the gateway to majestic kingdom of mountain gods. It is the land of many contrasts and splendors offering unparalleled trekking and mountaineering opportunities in the world.
Ethnically Baltis belong to Tibetan, Caucasian and Mongol stock and their culture, customs and traditions are very close to Ladakh and Tibet. Balti language is a member of Tibeto-Burman group of languages. Baltistan together with Ladakh was known as Great Bolor. In the 8th Century, Tibetans invaded Baltistan and Bolor confederacy confined to Little Bolor, i.e. Gilgit and Chitral. Thereafter Baltistan remained divided in to three independent states of Rondo, Shigir and Khapulo. This region remained under influence of Buddhism from 4th to 15th Century when Sufi saints preached Islam here. During Bolor era, Buddhism reached Tibet from Gandhara via Baltistan.
General Information on the Trekking
Drive to Askoli by jeep via Shigar valley (6-7hrs) 3000Mtr. O/n in camp
It is spectacular drive from Skardu to Askoli; the jeep road crosses the Braldu River three times and passes the villages of Dassu, Apligon, Pakora, Hoto chongo and Thongal. In Askole the porters will be waiting to us to start on the trekking to K2. We will follow the riverside trail to the confluence of the Biafo and Dumordo rivers. The trail climbs to a vantage point from which you see the snout of Baltoro Glacier and, in the far distance, a magnificent panorama of the Cathedral Towers and, left of them, the unmistakable triangle of K2.
On the fifth day we will reach Concordia camp at 4700mt, where we will have the golden opportunity to see 7000mt to above 8000mt peaks including mighty K-2 (8611m) Broad Peak 8047mt G-I 8068mt G-II 8035mt Sia Kangri 7422m Muztagh Tower 7284mt G-IV 7925m Miter Peak 6025m Golden Throne (7240m).
Then we will leave the Concordia and traverse the Baltoro Glacier and its crevasses. The route follows the Bradlu River through the Baltoro Glacierе and is an exciting 65 km adventure!
Start Date:
July, 15th 2007.
Price:
8 customers: 2770 EUR
The price includes Istanbul-Islamabad return ticket (505 EUR). For people under the age of 25 the end price is 65 EUR less. Extra luggage should be paid additionally.
10% discount for those who submit participation request form and prepay 40% of the price before April, 15th 2007.
Price Includes:
- Visa to Pakistan.
- Bulgarian guide.
- All travel expenses from Islamabad to Askoli and back- flight ticket to Skardu & back also included
- 7 days at a hotel in Pakistan on all inclusive basis.
- food & drinks during the trekking.
- Camping tents (D3V), mess tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent mattress, chairs, tables table lamps.
- Guide, cook, assistant cooks.
- Member's personal baggage 15 KGs per person – additional baggage will be extra charged.
- Air-condition mini bus or van from Islamabad, Skardu, Islamabad, pick and drop from airport to hotel, airport and sightseeing in Islamabad etc.
- Trekking permit 50 U$ per person .
- Fess: (Bridge crossing, cable crossing, camping)
- Visa to Pakistan (US$ 72 per person)
- Sofia-Istanbul bus ticket – round travel
- Pakistani flight Skardu- Islamabad – airport taxes included
Price does not include:
- Transfer from Istanbul bus station to the airport
- Sleeping bag and personal winter clothing.
- Personal expenses at the hotel such as telephone, fax, email charges, liquor or soft drinks.
- Helicopter charges in case of use for rescue and medical insurance.
- Crampons and axes (we would rent you these).
Participation Request form:
You should pay in advance 40% of the price, at least 3 months in advance and also provide a valid passport so that we can get a visa to Pakistan for you and reserve the flight tickets. The remaining price amount should be paid one month in advance.]]>2012-04-21Mont Blanc Traverse - The Three Monts Route
http://school.verticalworld.net/program.php?id=23
Click on the image to view it in full size
Mont Blanc is the highest peak in the Alps and in Western Europe. It is situated between the valley of Aosta in Italy and Haute-Savoie in France. The French-Italian border crosses its highest point.
The first ascent was made on August 8th in year 1786 by Jacques Balmat and doctor Michel Paccard. Today this ascent is considered to mark the beginning of modern mountaineering. The first woman to reach the top is Marie Paradis in year 1808.
Recently average 20 000 alpinists and tourists climb the top each year; however this doesn't mean that the top is easy to reach. In August, when it is high season, the local mountain rescue service makes at about 12 flights per weekend. The combination of high altitude, relatively unstable weather, steep and exposed terrain, glacial features, orienting difficulty can be quite serious.
Advantages
- Quick and easy access to the hut from the Aiguille du Midi;
- Modern and comfortable hut.
Click on the image to view it in full size
Prices
Per person for minimum 2 clients - 638 €
For individual client - 1100 €
The group is maximum 2 people.
Price Includes
- All guiding fees;
- Group climbing equipment (ropes & karabiners);
- 1 night accommodation in Cosmiques hut;
- 1 night accommodation in Nid d`Aigle hut;
- Lift tickets (cable-cars & train).
Price Not Includes
- Travel to and from Chamonix;
- Lodging in Chamonix;
- Mountain rescue insurance;
- Meals.
Click on the image to view it in full size
Notes regarding the price:
The price includes a return ticket for Aiguille du Midi cable car because it is possible for some clients to give up the climb at a certain stage of the route. This will entitle going down with Aiguille du Midi cable car both for the client and the guide accompanying him.
Itinerary
Day 1: Chamonix
Arrival and accommodation in Chamonix. Meeting with your guide in the evening, equipment check and briefing.
Day 2: Cosmiques hut (3613m) - 1 hour
At about 4.30 p.m. we will take the cable car to Aiguille du Midi. Then we walk down the snowy-icy ridge to Col du Midi. After short climb we will reach Cosmiques hut and stay there for the night.
- Aiguille du Midi (3775m) -> Cosmiques hut (3613m) = 45mins
Day 3: Mont Blanc (4808m) - 13/15 hours
We will get up at 1.30 a.m. and be on the route at 2.30 a.m. The duration of the climb to the top is between 7 and 10 hours. After reaching the top we will go down by the Normal route via Gouter hut and if the group is keeping a good pace we will be at Chamonix the save day (late in the evening). If the group is slow or tired we will spend the night at Tete Rousse hut or Nid d`Aigle hut and will continue the descent to Chamonix the next morning.
- Cosmiques hut (3613m) -> Col du Midi (3532m) = 15mins
- Col du Midi (3532m) -> Shoulder below Mont Blanc du Tacul (4120m) = 2hrs
- Shoulder below Mont Blanc du Tacul (4120m) -> Col Maudit (4035m) = 15mins
- Col Maudit (4035m) -> Col du Mont Maudit (4345m) = 2hrs 15mins
- Col du Mont Maudit (4345m) -> Col de la Brenva (4303m) = 30mins
- Col de la Brenva (4303m) -> Mur de la Cote (4485m) = 45mins
- Mur de la Cote (4485m) -> Mont Blanc (4808m) = 2hrs
- Mont Blanc (4808m) -> Nid d`Aigle (2372m) = 5hrs
Day 4: Extra Day for Bad Weather
The additional day to this program is planned in case of a bad weather or if we need to stay one more night in hut on our way down from the top.
Experience
To accomplish the climb you need to be in excellent physical condition and to have previous mountaineering experience including few long outings, self-arrest technique and ice climbing technique with an ice-axе and crampons.
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Personal Equipment
- 40-litre rucksack;
- Mountaineering boots - warm and suitable for crampons;
- Gaiters (with a strap under the boot);
- Crampons with anti-balling system;
- Classic ice axe;
- 1 or 2 telescopic ski poles;
- Lightweight and comfortable climbing harness + cow`s-tail with screw-gate karabiner;
- Head torch with new batteries;
- Lightweight helmet (especially for the Aiguille du Gouter);
- Warm socks (+ spare pair);
- Carline-type thermal T-shirt, avoid using cotton as it absorbs moisture and dries slowly;
- Polar fleece sweater;
- Down or Thermolite jacket;
- Carline-type or stretch polar fleece leggings;
- Waterproof jacket (with hood) and over-trousers (Gore Tex);
- Hat or headband;
- Balaclava;
- Sunglasses;
- Ski goggles;
- Pair of lightweight gloves;
- Pair of warm gloves or mittens;
- High SPF sun cream;
- 1-litre insulated water bottle;
- Snack food;
- Optional: a lightweight sheet sleeping bag for the night in the hut.
Good physical condition. . Your climbing skills should allow you to climb at least 5+, A0 (UIAA) as a second (summer rock climbing). Winter mountaineering experience – mastering a fall on a snow slope, using crampons and ice axes.
Insurance:
Insurance policy (Personal Accident Insurance) for minimum 250 EUR (the fee for this insurance is no more than 5 EUR) and mountain health insurance (this insurance can be made locally at the Mountain Rescue Service.
PRICE:
150 €
Personal expenses:
2 nights in Vihren hut. Food: you can bring your own food or dine at Vihren hut. Travel expenses to Shiligarnika.
Program:
1st day:
All participants shall gather at Vihren hut no later than 5.30 p.m.; checking of climbing gear and equipment;
2nd day:
Climbing one of the routes on the North face of mount Vihren.
3rd day:
Bivouacing on the wall and climbing the rest of the route. Travel back.
Part of the equipment can be provided by the organizers (crampons, axe, belay device, helmet, clamp, carabiners and harness).]]>2012-04-08Basic Rock Climbing & Mountaineering Training Course
http://school.verticalworld.net/program.php?id=4
- Professional climbing instructors;
- The necessary climbing equipment;
- 5 nights in Malyovitsa hut;
- Transport from Sofia airport to Malyovitsa and return;
- Mountain health insurance.
THE PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE:
- Food.
Bouldering near Malyovitsa hut
CLIMBING INSTRUCTORS:
- Senior instructor - Dimitar Koleshev;
- Junior instructor - to be assigned immediately before the course.
TRAINING PROGRAM:
1-st day:
All participants shall gather at Malyovitsa School Center no later than 5.30 p.m.; checking of climbing gear and equipment; basic knots.
Climbing at Spartak Training Rocks
2-nd day:
Training schedule: Practical training includes: knots, top-rope protected climbing, belaying and belay stances, using of special belay devices, climbing as a second and leading, communication signals, rappelling techniques. Theory: rock types, rock climbing sites in Bulgaria and abroad, different climbing styles.
The practical training will take place at Spartak Training Rocks.
Site approach: 40 minutes from Malyovitsa School Center.
Site description: Rock-walls are up to 15 meters high. The categories vary between 3+ to 5+ (UIAA); the rock is solid (mostly granite), no liable stones.
Duration of practical training: 7-8 h.
3-rd day:
Training schedule: Practical training includes: walking in a group, traverse, simultaneous belaying; anchoring systems and belay escapes. Theory: natural hazards in the mountain.
The practical training will include: climbing of mount Malyovitsa through the North-East crest and progressing from mount Elenka to mount Bezimenen, mount Malak Petel, mount Golyam Petel and mount Orlovets.
Site approach: it takes 3 hours from Malyovitsa School Center to the rocky foot of mount Malyovitsa
Site description: The rock formations on the ascent route are up to 3 meters high , category up to 3- (UIAA). The rock itself is crumbly and unstable at places which require higher awareness.
Duration of practical training: 9-12 h. according to the number of participants.
Climbing the East face of mount Elenka
4-th day:
Training schedule: Practical training includes: responsibilities of the leader and second, exchange leading/belaying, leading, protection placements, anchoring systems, using nuts and friends, organizing descent and rappelling, communication signals. Theory: climbing gear and camming devices.
The practical training will take place at mount Kuklata
Site approach: 1.30 hours from Malyovitsa School Center
Site description: route is 5-6 pitches on a 150 meter high rock-wall, category 3 (UIAA), climbing mainly through grassy passes, interrupted by rock formations. The second and the third pitches are the most difficult.
Duration of practical training: 7-9 h. according to the number of participants.
5-th day:
Training schedule: Practical training includes: responsibilities of the leader and second, exchange leading/belaying, leading, protection placements, anchoring systems, using nuts and friends, communication signals. Theory.
The practical training will include climbing of mount Elenka. Depending their individual skills participants will climb 1 or more routes from the below listed.
Site approach: 3 hours from Malyovitsa School Center
Site description: Variation of route "Raba"- category 3 (UIAA), 5 pitches, 150 meter high rock-wall; route "Classical" – 4+/5- (UIAA), 4.5 pitches, 120 meter high rock-wall; route "Kaminata" - 5- A0 (UIAA), 4.5 pitches, 100 meter high rock-wall; route "Academik" – 5+ (UIAA), 4.5 pitches, 130 meter high rock-wall. This climbing site is one of the most solid and pleasant; however there are some crumbly spots immediately before reaching the top.
Duration of practical training: 10-14 h. according to the number of participants.
Spartak Training Rocks – Rappelling
6-th day:
Training schedule: Practical training includes: responsibilities of the leader and second, exchange leading/belaying, leading, protection placements, anchoring systems, using nuts and friends, organizing descent and rappelling, communication signals.
The practical training will take place at Spartak Training Rocks
Site approach: 40 minutes from Malyovitsa School Center
Site description: Rock-walls are up to 20 meters high. The category of the route to be climbed is 4+ (UIAA); the rock is solid (mostly granite), no liable stones.
Duration of practical training: 5-6 h. according to the number of participants.
Footnote:
This program can be changed according to the physical abilities of the participants and their level. Changes may occur also if the weather conditions are bad.
Traversing from mount Malyovitsa to Zlya Zub
RECOMMENDED PERSONAL EQUIPMENT:
- Rock climbing shoes.
- Chalk bag.
PROGRAM OBJECTIVES:
- Climbing knots;
- Climbing techniques, types of rocks and safety;
- Belaying;
- Personal and special climbing equipment;
- Rappelling;
- Communication signals;
- Using of nuts and friends;
- Mountaineering and climbing gear;
- Alpine climbing history and climbing sites in Bulgaria and abroad;
- Climbing as a second and leading;
- Natural hazards in the mountain.
The East ridge of Mount Zliya Zab]]>2012-03-26Зимен траверс през връх Мальовица - връх Орловец - връх Ловница - Купените - Страшното езеро
http://school.verticalworld.net/program.php?id=75
Връх Голям Петел
ИЗИСКВАНИЯ:
Много добра физическа подготовка. Необходим е планински опит - сериозни технически преходи в българските планини при летни условия, включващи лесно катерене и движение по скални гребени. Добре е да имате умения за движение с котки и самозадържане с пикел. Изискваме представяне на валидна планинска здравна застраховка за времето на изкачването.
ПРЕПОРЪКА:
Изкачването е подходящо да послужи като тренировъчно за летни изкачвания на върхове с голяма надморска височина като Монблан, Арарат, Елбрус и Дамавенд и технически върхове като Матерхорн, които изискват катерене. Траверса на Малuовишкия циркус е препоръчителна трета стъпка при желание за участие в най-техничните и алпийски зимни програми на Вертикален свят и най-добрият избор за тестване на личните способности и екипировка, с която разполагате за изкачвания извън България.
Първата половина от траверса на Малuовишкото било
ЦЕНА:
При минимум 3-ма клиенти - 250 лв. на човек
ЦЕНАТА ВКЛЮЧВА:
- Професионален алпийски водач;
- Алпийски инвентар за траверса;
- Транспорт до Малuовица за първите 3-ма записани участника.
Събиране на групата до 20.00 часа в хижа Малuовица. Нощувка в хижата.
2 ден:
Ставане в 3.00 часа. Първо се изкачваме се на връх Малuовица по Североизточният гребен. В зависимост от снежните условия може да подходим през Овчарски улей или през Еленино езеро. Продължаваме по билото покрай Еленин връх, през Безименен връх, Петлите, връх Орловец и слизаме покрай връх Злия зъб до заслон Гранитна вода. Бивак в заслона или при достатъчно време в снежна пещера.
3 ден:
Продължаваме по траверса през връх Ловница и Купените. Слизаме до заслон Страшното езеро и от там се спускаме до хижа Малuовица. Отпътуване на групата. Може да се наложи и втора нощувка в хижата.
Поглед към целия траверс от връх Голям Купен
ЗАДЪЛЖИТЕЛНА ЛИЧНА ЕКИПИРОВКА:
- Котки;
- Пикел;
- Алпийски обувки;
- Шапка;
- Вълнени ръкавици – 2 бр. (може единият чифт да е от полар).
- Шушлекови (горатексови) ръкавици;
- Яке шушлеково, връхно с качулка (горатекс);
- Дебел полар;
- Фланелки (термобелuо) с дълги и къси ръкави;
- Долнище шушлеково (горатекс), за предпочитане да е гащеризон с ципове отстрани;
- Долнище (полар или термобелuо);
- Гети;
- Раница до 45 л.;
- Каска;
- Челник;
- Очила (скиорски);
- Катерачна седалка;
- Снегоходки.
